Thursday, 12 April 2018

What are Skin Acids?

Skin Acids? Scary right.
No need to be scared, honestly.
Skin Acids are a products we should all be incorporating into our weekly skincare routine at the very minimum.
They suit all skin types as there is actually an acid for each one.

Skin acids recently reached up to the hype late last year, doctors were already prescribing them way before we could get out hands on them in our regular beauty stores.
So of course they are all safe.
Just because they are 'acids' does not mean these are bad chemicals or unnatural for our skin on a regular basis, that is not the issue here at all.
The main point it that these absorb into a deeper surface than any of out daily products and work to the best ability to leave our skin looking and feeling flawless from the in and outside.

I have been using acids for a year now, and I massively see and feel a difference in my skin, as far as to say, better than after a microdermabrasion.
The acids I regually use on my skin are AHA's, Gylcolic Acid, and Hyaluronic Acid
Don't worry, I am now going to explain
- What each acid does - including more than the 3 I use.
- Explain what acids are best for what skin types
- Where to incorporate the acids into your skincare routine
- Products you can buy with these acids in - available in all beauty stores.


Acid Descriptions
Salicylic Acid - Exfoliates the skin, cleans pores, helps reduce acne.
Targetted to skin concerns around 'Pigmentation' such as Acne, Acne Scars, Melasma, Sun Damage, Age Spots and also has anti-inflammatory properties.
Salicylic Acid can be found in Cleansers and Serums with amounts from 0.5 to 2% concentration which is enough to help towards the listed skin concerns.

Glycolic Acid - Anti-ageing must have!
Glycolic is the most popular acid, mainly known as AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) This acid comes from the sugar cane, which has the smallest properties which helps it penetrate deeper into the skin.
Its direct approach to dealing with exfoliating the skin, to help reduce lines again reducing acne and pigmentation, evens skin tone and depth of skin thickness - which makes this a great all in one.
This concentration is will be found below 10% in skincare products, from toners and serums.
Glycolic acid is also known to be used within skincare peels such as microdermabrasion and micro-needling treatments.
An important point about this acid is that it does increase sun sensitivity so you must daily use sunscreen before your makeup or within your moisturiser to protect the skin from sun damage.
(I love these unexpected top tips on how to use this acid- via Pinterest)

Mandelic Acid - Have the dreamy even skin you've always wanted!
Another AHA acid which is derived from bitter almonds. This is an exfoliating acid that is useful for evening out the skin tone and helping with pigmentation/redness from acne.
Due to its large molecule it does not sink as deep as Glycolic Acid which makes it less irritating on the skin - perfect for more ethnic skin tones to prevent too much sensitivity flare.
It penetrates the skin slower and more gentle than any other acids.

Azelic Acid - Pimples no more!
One of the main treatments to finally saying goodbye to moderate acne and spots regularly occurring on the skin which is found in many prescription creams. It kills bacteria, clears pores and reduces inflammation.
Another benefit that this acid can be used to is a skin-lightening treatment that can help with hyper-pigmentation and acne scars too.
This concentration is usually around 15-20% strength within day & night creams.
Azelic Acid can sometimes effect people with VERY sensitive skin which can cause redness, stinging or peeling of the skin due to the link this acid has with Retinoids (explained later on)

Lactic Acid - Another AHA that is great for exfoliation of the skin to remover dead skin cells and improve the radiance and brightness of the skin. Which narrows down to purpose for pigmentation and ageing benefits.
This is great for drier skin types since it buffs the skin texture and puts the correct moisture back into the skin.
Lactic Acid is more gentle that Glycolic Acid, so better for more sensitive skin types, as this again is a great all in one - It is derived from milk, which is why its more gentle, so has a moisturising element to the acid.

Ferulic Acid - A great antioxidant acid, for lovers of Vitamin C & E this is used in conjunction in serums.
This is a powerful antioxidant which helps protect the skin from free-radicals which are damaging the skin on a daily basis through the UV exposure.
A highly recommended acid for fighting benefits of all the bad pollution that our skin suffers from daily, so if you are wanting an acid that cares for the skin, this is the gem in your skincare bags.

Hylaruolic Acid - The ruler of the moisturising game!
The one acid, that does the opposite to what an 'acid' sounds like it would do…
Hyaluronic Acid is a highly hydrating ingredient for the skin, which helps your cells to attract and retain moisture/water in a deeper base of the dermis.
It also soothes, plumps and softens the skin on a visible basis leaving your skin looking healthy and hydrated.
Hyaluronic Acid is in a variety of products available on the high street such as cleansers, moisturisers and serums.
A new favourite in using this acid is using in a re-fresher mist throughout the day, to hydrate and perk the skin up.

Retinoid Acid - The highest form in Vitamin A which targets fine lines and wrinkles to a massive benefit, but can also be very reactive on sensitive skin.
Mainly known to be used within eye products, to combat the signs of ageing around the eyes.
Also know as Retinol, is highly revolved around, and used for anti-ageing only.
Small amounts of Retinol work its magic overtime, and you will reap benefits. As over usage can cause bad irritation.
What I love about Retinol is that it builds collagen in the skin, to build a protective and stronger cell bonds to boost this skins barriers to slow down and keep on top of ageing.
When you start using Retinol, start with the lower strengths so that you adapt your skin at a slower pace to prevent the irritation that may occur.
It is also important to maintain your skins moisture whilst using this product as it can heavily dry your skin out.

Which acids are best for which skin type
Oily Skin - Salicylic Acid, Azelic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid
Dry Skin - Lactic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Retinol
Combination Skin - Hyaluronic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Retinol
Sensitive Skin - Hyaluronic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid


When to use your idea acid and important usages
Each acid is prescribed different usages, mainly once a day, or every other day if its a higher concentration.
It is also important to know that the hight the concentration percentage the more likely to irritate the skin - so don't always assume the stinger the better/faster it will work.
Acids should be used at a slow pace to overtime, work and enhance the skins texture and appearance.

When buying skincare products, acids are most commonly found within Cleansers, Toners and Serums but when checking the ingredients be sure that it reads in the top 5 order, as the lower down states barely visible effects.

NEVER mix acids, thinking you will reap extra benefits. This will cause irritation, problems within skin sensitivity.
Avoid AHA's with Retinol at the same time.
AHA's = DAY
Retinol = NIGHT

An ideal regime for a normal skin type…
- Lactic Acid Cleanser
- Glycolic Acid Toner
- Ferulic Acid Serum
- Hyaluronic Moisturiser
- Retinol Eye cream/serum

These products wouldn't be used one after the other.
Ideally, alternate, day/night, 2-3x a week with a mixture of natural based ingredient skincare products.



Products with these acids incorporated
Salicylic Acid
Origins Super Spot Remover Blemish Treatment Gel
Murad Clarifying Body SprayBoots Super Facialist Salicylic Acid Purifying Cleansing Wash

Glycolic Acid
Alpha H - Liquid Gold
M&S Pure Women's Instant Radiance Glycolic Toner
Nip + Fab Glycolic Fix Daily Cleansing Pads - 60 Pads
Pixi - Glow Tonic

Mandelic Acid
Vivant Skincare - 15% Mandelic Acid 3-in-1 Wash
Sesderma Mandelac Serum Ampoules
BeautyMaker Mandelic Acid Deep Cleansing Water           
                                 
Azelic Acid
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Sesderma Azelac Lotion
Rodial Super Acids Daily Azelaic Acid Serum 1oz

Lactic Acid
SUNDAY RILEY Goof Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment
The Ordinary - Lactic Acid 10% HA 2%
Skinstitut - L-Lactic Cleanser

Ferulic Acid - 
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Ferulic and Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic
Mario Badescu Vitamin C Serum

Hyaluronic Acid -
Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench Hyaluronic Cloud Serum

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel
Balance Me Hyaluronic Plumping Mist

Retinol - 
Olay Retinol Eye Serum
REN Bio Retinoid Anti-Wrinkle Concentrate Oil
Chantecaille Retinol Intense


I absolutely hope you learnt so much about Facial Acids, that are taking over the skin scene right now.
I have a massive passion for 'Behind the scenes' when it comes to makeup, and skincare is my number 1 recommendation for good makeup no matter what.

Do you use any Skincare Acids?
Are you thinking of purchasing some Skincare Acids into your routine now?

Love Sophie xx
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1 comment

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